June 19-22 Holland "Tulips and windmills"

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June 19, 1914

buoy The Hague - Amsterdam

The Hague de Bellevue Hotel (very good). Spent some time looking for a suitcase to replace mine which literally dropped to pieces. Took $14.60 of my load out of my safety bag! Then we went to Maurits Luis the art gallery. Pictures I liked or noticed most:

Rembrandt - School of Anatomy - Nicholas Tulp performing post mortem - abdominal sections - painted 1637

Rembrandt - Simeon in the Temple - beautiful "Susanne" about to bathe, being spied upon by face in shrubbery - Simply hideous - painted 1631

Jan Vermeer - View of Delft - beautiful landscape.

Paul Potter - Bull - Bull most lifelike. Cow lying down and 2 sheep and man.

Gerard Dou - The Household - Man woman and child in cradle with cabbage, hare, etc. around room.

Jan Steen - 2 Doctors visit Molenaer - 5 senses - swell! vulgar.

Jan Steen - Poultry yard.

Jan Steen - Drunken woman - Horrid.

Murillo - Madonna and Child - Madonna beautiful - reminded me in expression of Carol Johnstone.

We then walked to the prison where we saw the most horrible instruments of torture - which when I have read about have tried to believe were half myth - thumb screws, branding irons, racks, etc. - a most horrible place built in 1300, and used as late as 1828.

After lunch we drove to "House in the Woods" Royal Palace. Saw the home of the Dowager Queen and Peace Palace.

Then went to Scheveningen - which was much like Atlantic City but only a little much - with the little bathing houses on the beach which were pulled to the water's edge by horses and the queer little chairs which people sat in along the beach. It was a very good beach, but not so good as our home beaches. Hotels large, but only a few of them.

Came back by trolley. Bought a piece of pottery made in Holland. Trip to Amsterdam thru' exactly the same country - highly fertile lowlands, canals, cattle, flowers, and windmills. Arrived at Pension Lutkie - a rather foreign house with the steepest stairs I ever saw in a house.

 

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June 20, 2014

Amsterdam

Pension Lutki Amsterdam. Amsterdam is much larger and more commercial, but not so foreign-looking as The Hague. Flowers, flowers everywhere - and such beautiful ones - daisies three inches in diameter, coreopsis as large as the daisies, and beautiful roses - and so very cheap. Mrs. Goddard presented us each with one - short stems - 3 for 10 centimes! Tried to buy tulip bulbs but were told they were unfit to sell at this time of year - left address for catalogue and will send in September.

Went to the Rijks Museum this morning. Enjoyed Rembrant's "Night Watch", "The Syndics", "A Woman's Portrait" - Nicholas Maes (a pupil of Rembrant's) "The Spinner" - a copy of which I bought and sent to Wirt by mail - Johannes Vermeer's "The Milkmaid", A. Van Dyke's "Wm II and Mary Stuart", Reuben's Cimon and Rena - which I did not like - "Rembrant's Mother" by Gerard Dou and others too numerous to mention. Portrait of Elizabeth Baas (Baars?) - Rembrandt. A most natural looking old lady in Dutch cap and ruff.

After lunch we went to Kalver St. and did some shopping. Bought a silver vanity box, postcards, perfume etc. Took a trolly ride around the city. After dinner we went to the American Hotel expecting to sit in a sidewalk booth, but it was so crowded that we had to sit inside. Had a glass of Pilsner beer - which cost 20 centimes - and we tipped the waiter 5 centimes or cents - as they call them - which is rather confusing.

 

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June 21, 2014

Amsterdam

Today we took a trip to the Isle of Marken, stopping at Broek where we went thru' a cheese farm - saw all the processes of making cheese, and it was immaculately clean. The marking of the pineapple cheese is done with a coarse twine bag and weights when the cheese is not yet dry. Bought a Dutch cap - such as all the natives wear. Monnikendam very much the same. Bought the most delicious strawberries which were sweeter and finer in texture than ours. Next stop Volendam - the quaintest fishing village I have ever seen - hundreds of fishing boats with the heaviest of hulls and high thick bows. The men, women, and children in their Dutch costumes were most picturesque. The men's trousers, as the women's skirts, huge at the top with the queerest of belts and caps and modern shoes - the worst little beggars in the world. At the Isle of Marken we had a heavy thunder shower, but saw the insides of several cottages with their walls covered with plates and very handsome pieces of mahogany for such little insignificant houses - queer costumes again, with wooden shoes at each front door. The trip back thru' Zuider Zee was most delightful. Met A. Oesteshuis, a young University of Wisconsin Professor who lives in Madison, Wisconsin, and also Mrs. Orr and her daughter of Worcester, Mass. Said goodbye to Dr. & Mrs. Graber - Leave for Hanover in morning.

 

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Monday June 22, 2014

Amsterdam - Hanover - Hildesheim, Germany

Expected to take the 8 o'clock train but found the tickets were not good until the 9 o'clock train, so we sat in the depot for one hour and watched a couple make love while we wrote post cards! Had a long ride from 9 to six - Amsterdam to Hanover - rain, rain - lunch on the train. Took the train to Hildesheim - about an hour and a halfs' ride - and found that the pension keeper, where we had expected to stay, had moved out - and when we found her she told us she could not take us. Mrs. Goddard was very sweet about it, but if I had known a few German swear words, I should certainly have proceeded to use them. Sent us to Germains Hotel - where Portia collapsed - and we had a scramble to get Dr. Schneider, a fat little round soul who seemed to know his job! At our first entrance to the hotel, which was part beer garden, I thought we were surely in the wrong pew! But such things seem OK in Germany, and we found the hotel a most delightful place, and the proprietor and maids most attentive. Dorothy and myself ordered a bath, but as it took about two hours, with the proprietor, two maids, and two boys to fix the bath, I decided that if the proceeding had to be gone over with for mine, I'd have to sit up till morning - so countermanded the order. The bathtubs are most unique. They are attached to a small stove by two pipes and a fire is made in the stove - when the water gets hot enough, why all you have to do is take the live coals out of the stove! Here we met our first feather beds for covering - the beds being heaped up almost to headboard and sloping gradually down at the foot - looked queer to say the least. Here too we saw the first German stoves - high affairs that looked like miniature towers - some made of tile and some of iron - resembling a grandfather clock and reaching almost to the ceiling.

 

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Last Updated ( Thursday, 05 October 2017 20:16 )